The History and Evolution of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon: 1988-1993

With increasing confidence, we tackled 1988. Mother Nature decided it was time for a warm, low cropping year and we produced a wine in the style that was a mix of 1986 and 1983.  The fruit aromas were the classic red currant of the ’83 and the tannins were very much in the mould of ’86. It was the year when we could apply our new and unapologetic aim, emphasis on ripeness.

As is so often the case, just when it seems we have this viticulture game covered, Mother Nature throws a curve ball.  The growing season of 1988/89 started well enough, with reasonable rainfall and no wind or hail damage. Temperatures were relatively warm as we proceeded into summer and we expected an early vintage.  All that changed in the first week of February when tropical inflow made its way down the WA coast and we received about 70mm of rain.  This caused all sorts of complications for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, both of which were ready to pick. Cabernet Sauvignon is more robust and coped with the rain but the amount received, combined with the immediate transition to autumn temperatures meant we had to wait and wait for sugar levels to rise.

This was the first of our truly wet vintages and we learned many valuable lessons, the most important of which is that if the rain comes early enough, the best quality outcome will be achieved if we give the vines as long as possible to recover. In 1989, we watched the weather and waited as long as we could and its median harvest date of 8th April made it our latest vintage at the time, 6 days later than both 1982 and 1987.

Our patience was rewarded, with the sugar level reaching 13° Baume, tannins were well balanced and the final alcohol was 13.5%. A mighty effort, given the challenging circumstances. It also means that 1989 has always had a special place in Keith’s heart. It falls between the high-quality years of 1988 and 1990 and in comparative tastings of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, has often been considered as an ugly step sister. This has often prompted an emotional defence from a proud father because of the blood, sweat and tears that went into that vintage.

What can we say about 1990?  It was a great vintage, right across Australia and especially so in Margaret River.  Spring 1989 produced regular rain and no wind and hail, and flowering dates were slightly behind.  Throughout the summer we experienced regular rain and so the vines were in terrific shape as autumn approached.

In mid-March we experienced a winter cold front that dumped 25mm of rain, but armed with our 1989 experience, we were confident things would be fine if we waited and that’s how it turned out.  Quite simply, a marvellous year of solid crops and great quality, certainly in the style of 1975 and probably our best wine to date.

What followed in 1991 was a warmer year, although not dissimilar and produced another great Cabernet Sauvignon; in fact, in the opinion of consumers (as opposed to critics), perhaps our best ever.  Put simply, another marvellous year, with above average crops and exceptional quality.

After these two bumper crops, it began to dawn on us that low cropping didn’t really suit Cabernet Sauvignon and that unlike Pinot Noir, which produces its best wines in the concentrated small crops, Cabernet has much better tannin balance and overall quality when the yields are up. The Bordelais had long noted this and celebrated their bountiful years, with 1982 being a good case in point.

Yet another good season followed in 1991/92 and we rolled through spring with benign conditions and a vineyard in good shape.  Summer temperatures were warm but not excessive and so all varieties ripened steadily but came on slightly later than average.  No problem, we thought, everything was looking excellent for Cabernet Sauvignon. Too easy, thought Mother Nature and so on 17th March, with full ripeness all but achieved, we received the first dump of what, in the end, totalled 50mm of rain.

Using the lessons of 1989, we waited once again and allowed ripening to catch up at least a little bit, eventually finishing our last pick on 21st April.  Even with the delayed harvest, the wine only reached 12.3% alcohol, relatively low for Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, which is usually 13.5-14.0%. Nevertheless, the extra time on the vine allowed better fruit aroma and tannin maturity, delivering a result at least as good as 1989.

In 1993, the clock rewound to 1984 and we had a cool, dry season. Everything went very much as we would have hoped, with steady, if slow ripening, leading to a harvest with good flavour and balance and average yields. The influence of the mild conditions is notable in two ways. Firstly, the median harvest date, which is a week later than average and secondly, an aromatic array of red currant, violet and roses, typical of those seasons.