The History and Evolution of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon: 2003-2005
There were no such complications in 2003. It was a good warm spring, with no damage to speak of, followed by a warm to hot summer, delivering a very slightly early vintage. A year that shared much in common with 1983 and not surprisingly the resulting wines are similar. Ripe red currant fruit characters are the order of the day, sitting over quite firm tannin, and despite this, it was ripe and generous enough to be enjoyed as a young wine. Nevertheless, cellaring expectations are high and while it has now developed some secondary bottle bouquet, it will continue to live on for at least another 20 years.
Keith has often felt that 2004 was the vintage that got away. Mild temperatures were common through spring and summer and while crop levels were good, ripening was steady but slow. As we approached the final fortnight for Cabernet Sauvignon, things were looking good and we felt we were about to make another 1985, without rain. What’s not to like about that? Thursday 18th March was yet another beautiful autumn day and we sampled the vineyard, concluding that Cabernet Sauvignon had at least 2 weeks to before it would be ready.
We checked the weather forecast, which suggested a few warm days coming but in our learned view, in mid to late March, we’d get one or two days with maxima in the low 30’s. Keith decided it was fine to travel to Adelaide for a wine tasting promotion. In the Qantas Lounge at Perth Airport on the Friday afternoon, he got an insight into what was to come, when the air conditioning failed and it was unpleasantly warm. Of course, this was in the Swan Valley, not Margaret River, so of course, would be cooler at home.
Down in the God’s Own Country at Wilyarup, the thermometer peaked at 32.5°C, so our guess seemed to be accurate. On Saturday, we got to 34.1°C, slightly warmer than expected but still OK but on Sunday the mercury climbed to 38.8°C, Monday reached 40°C and things finally eased on Tuesday with a maximum of 26.3°C. We ventured into the vineyard and took new samples to see what how things had progressed and discovered to our amusement that the Cabernet Sauvignon had managed to do 2 weeks ripening in 4 days and was now ready to pick.
The resulting wine has an interesting style. The harvest sugar level was 13.9° Baume and the fruit aromas were the expected generous combination of red currant, mulberry and violets but the tannin structure was firmer than we’d expected. It seems there may have been better balance if we’d had the 2 weeks of mild weather, which would have produced one of our greatest wines. That said, the 2004 is extremely good and aging beautifully. The additional phenolics are certainly playing their role and it will cellar well for at least another 20 years.
Luckily for us, we didn’t have to wait long for the next great vintage because 2005 was waiting for us. The growing season was gentle and mild, with no physical damage and temperatures slightly warmer, which meant flowering was a week early. The summer was warm to hot, giving an average temperature of 20.5°C, slightly warmer than the long term 20.2°C and crops were basically spot on average.
With the early flowering and good temperatures everything was in our favour and remained so right to the end and Cabernet Sauvignon came gently in to land on 21st March. The timing was impeccable because starting on 30th March, Mother Nature delivered 67mm rain over the next 4 weeks. Glad we missed that!
For many, the 2005 is perhaps Moss Wood’s best wine and rivals 2001. It’s ever so slightly different in style, with brooding dark fruit, more blackberry than mulberry, combining with tarry complexity. The palate is firm but still has the Moss Wood balance and at 20 years old, it’s just hitting its straps. Another vintage that will cellar beyond 40 years for sure.