Peter Forrestal

Article: Peter Forrestal from Decanter Western Australia 2004 Go West

Margaret River Area under vine: 2,200 ha (hectares)

Varities: Chardonnay, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc; Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot

Leading producers: Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate, Howard Park, Moss Wood, Pierro and Voyager Estate. Also Brookland Valley, Cape Grace, Devil’s Lair, Edwards, Evans & Tate, Gralyn, Suckfizzle and Xanadu.

Much of the recent developments in Margaret River have come via the corporation of the heart of the region, which has resulted in major rises in production and wine quality. However, two new areas of Margaret River have also been developed – Jindong in the north-east and Karridale in the deep south.

The move to plant large vineyards at Jindong by the likes of Evans & Tate and Vasse Felix caused a furore among established vignerons. This former potato-growing area has less severe growing conditions than other areas and, consequently, the wines lack the concentration and depth of flavour generally associated with Margaret River. They have, however, opened up a market for less expensive wines. Karridale is cooler, with a longer, slower ripening season than areas further north, so the wines are less full-bodied. White tend to shine, although warmer sites have produced some impressive Shiraz. Alexandra Bridge, Hamelin Bay and Suckfizzle are names to watch.

In the early days, there was much experimentation in Margaret River to determine which varieties best suited the region. The best are still Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and there is a consensus that top Chardonnays will be increasingly sourced from areas south of the Margaret River township, such as Leeuwin, Cape Mentelle, Voyager and Devil’s Lair, while the finest Cabernets will come from the gravelly loam soils of Wilyabrup, from Cullen, Moss Wood, Gralyn, Howard Park, Brookland Valley, Lenton Brae and Cape Grace.

Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc blends remain very popular, especially those from Cullen, Suzfizzle, Pierro, Moss Wood, Ribbon Vale, Edwards and Lenton Brae. There have been major increases in plantings of Merlot – without startling results; and Shiraz – look for Gralyn, Flinders Bay and Voyager.