Princess Margaret

Article by Gerry Essery from Singapore Tatler – October 2004

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon has established itself as one of the classic wine styles not only of the Margaret River but of Australia, as Gerry Essery reports.

Suppose you were planning the perfect escapist vacation. You might think perhaps of the Maldives, Bali, or maybe even the isle of Capri. May I suggest an interesting alternative, the Margaret River region of Western Australia? Not far from Southeast Asia, but millions of kilometres from the pain and strain of city life. Situated in the extreme southwestern corner of Australia, the region forms a truncated peninsula surrounded on three sides by the mild waters of the Indian Ocean.

Perth is said to have the best climate in the world. That is not true, the climate of Margaret River is better. It has a mean daily minimum temperature of only 10 degrees celsius. So what does this enchanted land have to offer the visitor? Peace and tranquility in a delightful and peculiarly Australian rural setting; a land of little creeks winding through gentle valleys with an abundance of indigenous shrubs, wildflowers and ancient contorted eucalypts.

This is not the outback, there are innumerable restaurants – many operated by wineries – motels, vineyard cottages and cosy bed and breakfast hideaways; hotels too, including one of the finest five-star properties in the southern hemisphere: Caves House.

Everyone knows that wine is good for you, perhaps that is why this wineland owes its existence to the medical profession. Tom Collins, cardiologist, established the first vineyard, Vasse Felix, in 1967. Dr Bill Pannell started Moss Wood in 1970 and Dr Cullen laid the foundation for Cullen Wines in 1971.

A paper by viticulturist John Gladstones first drew attention to the suitability of Margaret River for the cultivation of the wine. Perhaps this is what induced Pannell to commence his search for the perfect soil structure. He accomplished this by digging exploratory holes all over the area. He found the ideal site at Wilyabrup and persuaded the owner to sell off a block that became Moss Wood.

It is not hard to identify a wine as Australian but to pinpoint its origin is something else again. But Margaret River reds are different; they are as much like those from the eastern states, as a wine from Cyprus is like that of Bordeaux. They are rounder, richer, softer and less tannic and may be drunk with enjoyment while young. They are rather like a cross between the wines of the Napa and those of Chile. Moss Wood produce an interesting Semillon, a rewarding Chardonnay and a creditable Pinot Noir but their piece de reistance is their distinguished Cabernet Sauvignon.

River Tales A small estate located in the Margaret River region south west of Perth, Moss Wood is considered a premium wine producer, its first vintage was in 1973 with its Cabernet Sauvignon, which has since become its flagship.

Owners Keith and Clare Mugford oversee two vineyards – Moss Wood and Ribbon Vale – and the production of eight wines. They have also made the bold decision to increasingly screwcap their bottles to eliminate problems caused by cork taint.