The History and Evolution of Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon: 1983-1986 Seasonal Variation

In 1983, we had a vintage that was completely the opposite and more in line with 1976.  The season was warm and dry and the Cabernet Sauvignon was notable for its ripe red currant fruit notes and, for Moss Wood, firm tannins.  It was a wine we liked from the day we made it and so did the wine show judges.  At the 1983 Perth Royal Show it was a gold medal and trophy winner.

The dial spun back the other way in 1984, with a long, cool and dry season.  We were now beginning to understand that no vintage is exactly the same as one we’ve made in the past.  Yes, the years may share similarities but each one is different.  It was also becoming clear that no matter how much, as winemakers, we wanted to influence the style and quality, Mother Nature was largely in charge. From this emerged our preference for describing the quality of each new release in these terms, rather emphasizing our production efforts.

In 1984 we returned to 1982-like style, still recognizable as Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon but again with emphasis on the classic Claret notes of leaf, tobacco and cedar.  We would like to have made a riper wine, as we’d done in 1983, but the season simply didn’t allow it.  Another lesson learned – Cabernet Sauvignon ripeness in Margaret River was more marginal than the temperature data indicated, something we’ve become increasingly mindful of over the years.

We rolled into 1985 and enjoyed one of the region’s best ever growing seasons, good for all varieties, with many similarities to 1980, although slightly cooler and with more rain during harvest.

Two things were notable.  Firstly, we experienced Moss Wood’s warmest day, during Keith’s time at least, when the mercury maxed out at 41.5°C on 25th February.  Secondly, we had our first vintage with significant rain, receiving 50mm just after we commenced picking the Cabernet Sauvignon.  We had to cool our jets for two weeks while we waited for ripening to get moving.  The lesson was, if it rains, we need to be patient.  If fine weather looms, the vines will make up lost ground.

The resulting wine remains one of our finest.  The relatively mild season delivered the full range of Cabernet fruit aromas, red currant, blueberry and violets and the tannins were beautifully balanced.

In 1986, the season was not dissimilar but crops were smaller and the finish was warm and dry.  Fruit ripeness was good and Cabernet Sauvignon displayed lots of red currant and tar, and the tannins were quite firm.  We were beginning to understand that in the lower crop years, Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon is more tannic and slower to age.