MOSS WOOD NEWSLETTER Autumn NEWS ISSUE #106 march 2020

MOSS WOOD 2017 CABERNET SAUVIGNON

40_20191119_MOSS WOOD_Creatives 750ml 2017 Cab sav not pouring H

VINTAGE NOTES

As we said, it’s a fine line and we are entirely in the hands of Mother Nature.  In 2017 she made plenty of idle threats but in the end took pity on the humble grapegrowers of Margaret River and delivered a classic, West Coast Indian Summer.  We couldn’t have done any better if we’d written the script ourselves.

Aside from the generally low temperatures discussed above, we had drizzly weather during flowering and 16 days when minima were below the crucial 8°C.  These cool nights were right at the beginning of the process, so appear to have done little harm, with yield for Cabernet Sauvignon being only very slightly below average.  There was a 39mm dump of rain that came on 12th December which didn’t help matters but at least on that day the temperatures weren’t too low.

Through January we experienced delightful conditions, if somewhat mild.  The mean temperature of 19.5°C was nearly 1° below average, so beach days were at a bit of a premium.  February was similar and during the second week we also received 22mm of rain which freshened things up.  It was during March when we started to have Chrissie Amphlett ringing in our ears, when we racked up 81mm of rain.  Yes, with the arrival of autumn we expect to see some showers but not necessarily quite that much.

At this stage, the late flowering and mild temperatures were beginning to loom large.  Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon needs at least 1100 hours where the temperature is between 18 and 28°C to reach full ripeness but by the end of March, it had received 1046 and astute readers will note that to achieve the additional 50+ hours, we needed another 10 bright sunny days.

At this point Mother Nature had a complete change of heart.  The sun shone and most importantly, the rain stopped and we started picking Cabernet Sauvignon in the second week of April, at 13.0° Baume and with full flavour ripeness after 1120 hours of ripening under its belt.

Meanwhile, the blending varieties were going about their business.  Cabernet Franc came off on 4th April at a very creditable ripeness of 13.9° Baume, followed 11 days later by Petit Verdot at an even more impressive 13.9 Baume.  Who would have known it had been so mild?

Yields across the 3 varieties were varied.  At 4.39 tonnes per hectare, Cabernet Franc was down 26% but Cabernet Sauvignon was virtually spot on its average at 7.37 tonnes per hectare and Petit Verdot went ballistic.  Its yield of 7.25 tonnes per hectare was an amusing 32% above average.  We don’t often get the chance to write a statement like that.

Production Notes

All the fruit was hand-picked and delivered to the winery where it was destemmed and placed in small, open fermenters. Each batch was seeded with multiple yeast strains and hand-plunged three times per day for extraction.  Time on skins was typically 14 days, although one batch was pressed after a rare 22 days in the fermenter.  As always, each one was tasted daily and pressed according to taste.

In May 2017, after malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, each batch was racked to wood.  All barrels were 228 litre French oak and 15% were new.  In November 2018 all the individual batches were racked and blended for the first time.  The final makeup of the assemblage was 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc.

People familiar with the traditional Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon blend will note the higher percentage of Petit Verdot than is usual.  As we noted above, we had a surprisingly high yield.  We had no hesitation including it in the blend because the mighty 2001 was 89%, 7% and 4%, respectively.  We were more than happy with how that turned out.

In October 2019 the wine was racked from barrel for the final time and we conducted fining trials to see if we could improve the tannin balance but no fining was necessary.  It was then sterile filtered and bottled on 1st Nov, 2019.

Wine Facts

Harvest Dates: Cabernet Sauvignon – 10/4/2017
Cabernet Franc – 4/4/2017
Petit Verdot – 15/4/ 2017
Harvest Ripeness: Cabernet Sauvignon 13.0° Baume
Cabernet Franc 13.9° Baume
Petit Verdot 13.9° Baume
Yields: Cabernet Sauvignon – 7.37t/ha
Cabernet Franc – 4.39t/ha
Petit Verdot – 7.25t/ha
Growing Season Average Temperature:

 

18.9⁰C

Ripening time from flowering to harvest: Cabernet Sauvignon – 122 days
Cabernet Franc – 123 days
Petit Verdot - 130 days
Oak maturation: 31 months
Bottled: 04/11/2019
Released: 04/05/2020
Alcohol: 14%

 

Moss Wood 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Pouring

Tasting Notes

Nose

A classic Cabernet combination of blueberries, violets, blackberries with tar and cedar notes. The musky, black fruit note also suggests the higher percentage of Petit Verdot this year. There’s also pencil shavings and pomegranate and a very light toasty oak.

 

Palate

In the traditional Moss Wood style, the first impression here is one of bright, generous blue and black fruit flavours, sitting over concentrated but balanced tannin. It’s the classic vineyard statement. However, there are also some pointers to the 2017 season, with crisp acidity, giving the palate a taut, almost zippy feel. The finish is firm, with a very light touch of toasty oak, mixing with cedar and tar.

Cellaring

Apparently, Mark Twain once said history never repeats itself but it often rhymes and we reckon grape growing seasons are a classic example. Moss Wood followers will know we’re fond of reminiscing about vintages past and how they compare with current releases and yes, it’s a useful way to give perspective on wine style and cellaring potential. With the 2017 we turn immediately to the 1990 because these two share some remarkable similarities. Both were mild growing seasons with plenty of rain and in March, not only were the dates similar but also the amounts. It resulted in similar ripeness, 13.0 Baume in 2017 compared with 12.8 in 1990, and harvest with the former picked on 10th April and the latter on the 12th. Most importantly, this means we have great expectations of the 2017 because its older sibling remains one of Moss Wood’s finest that continues to drink well 30 years later. At present, the wine is showing vibrant fruit aromas so it’s an appealing youngster and can certainly be enjoyed now. However, the underlying structure is firm and will support long term aging, just as it did for the 1990. Over the next decade it should begin to soften but it will take until at least 20 years of age before it reaches full maturity.

 

Colour and condition

Deep brick red, in bright condition.

reviews

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Huon Hooke, The Real Review

Deep purple-red colour, smoky, broken-rock, pencil-shavings aromas and the palate is full-bodied and densely textured with deep flavour and length. Traces of smoked meats. A firm and upright cabernet with masses of chewy but supple tannins that endure long on the follow-through. A high-potential cabernet that has everything ahead of it. Cellaring recommended. 2027–2041  …

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot

The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is extraordinary. Tasted first from barrel, it was a picture of restrained power and nothing has changed with seamless and perfectly composed aromas of cassis and red currant with a gentle lining of dried herb. This is a wine of elegance, pinpoint balance and precision rather than brutish power with firm…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Andrew Caillard, The Vintage Journal

Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, espresso, roasted chestnut aromas with hints of black olive/ spice. Inky deep and generously concentrated with ample cassis, black cherry, mocha flavours, superb roasted chestnut/ marzipan notes, and classical fine-grained tannins. Builds up claret/ cedar firm with a lovely pure black currant plume. The oak is still dominant but offset perfectly…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Gary Walsh

I’ve not given it much thought to date, because Moss Wood has been a part of my wine life for many decades, but it just occurred to me that it’s quite an unusual and evocative name for a winery. Anyway, if I stretch my memory back, this maybe puts me in mind of the 2005…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Ray Jordan Wine

I’ve been waiting for this wine to be released for some time. I had great expectation that this wonderful vineyard from this exceptional vintage would produce something equally exceptional. Well, guess what? It has. This is such a beautiful example of what Moss Wood cabernet is all about. There’s nothing big and brutish here. This…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Edward Agg, The Cellar Post

This is right up there with the best in recent memory. Wonderfully complex on the nose. Blackberries, cassis, raspberry, violets, cedar, tobacco, graphite and pencil shaving, something exotic there too, rummy and clove. Medium-full on the palate, superb detail and elegance. The fruit and spice complexity seems effortless yet intense. Juicy cassis, violet, pencil graphite…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Ken Gargett, The Wine Pilot

No doubt many winelovers have been eagerly awaiting this wine, one of the last of Margaret River’s big guns from the stunning 2023 vintage. This brilliant Cabernet saw all parcels harvested fermented separately in small open fermenters. Maturation was in French oak barriques, 15% new. The final blend included 4% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit…

Moss Wood 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon – Marc Malouf, Wine Worth Writing About

Impenetrable dark crimson with a ruby rim and a complex and serious nose of violets, deep pitched black fruits and berries, panforte, charred meat, leather, pecan pie, tar, cedar, graphite and luxurious spices.Textbook Marg’s Cab! In the mouth it’s full bodied, creamy and elegantly textured with the finest of tannins, wonderful depth of flavour and…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Richard Hemming, jancisrobinson.com

Tasted blind. Bright ruby. Sweet oak perfume on the nose, with candied black fruit alongside. Opulent, intense but not heavy, there’s a featherweight touch to the tannins and the body. Persistent and pure, drinkable now but the peak is still a good few years away. November 2022  

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Aaron Brasher

Moss Wood sets the bar at the highest level when it comes to Australian cabernet sauvignon. This latest release continues a lineage of superb cabernet sauvignon that began in 1973. This is a wine that can undoubtedly be classed as an Australian ‘First Growth’ and deserves its place as one of Australia’s supreme exponents of…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – James Suckling

Plush, perfumed aromas of red and black currants, black cherries, spices, graphite, purple flowers, crushed blackberries and violets. Finely tuned tannins and bright acidity lead into a midweight, fruit-driven palate with almost silky texture and no heaviness. Tightly wound with some early-drinking generosity and plenty of polish. 92% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot and 4%…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Ciao Magazine, Winsor Dobbin

If you have a special occasion to celebrate, or someone who deserves a treat then this excellent Bordeaux-style blend would be an excellent choice if you have cash to splash. From one of the best producers in Margaret River this is a complex and rewarding wine that would grace any dinner party. Think complexity, intensity,…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – The Wine Advocate, Erin Larkin

I taste in batches of six, pouring each glass, gassing the bottles and working my way through the flight. Today, this 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon was poured in glass number five, and so it has had some time to breathe. Upon pouring, the nose was so abundantly, luxuriatingly steeped in graphite, fresh lead pencil (a smell…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Cassandra Charlick, Decanter

Still a baby of a wine, tightly bundled, but goodness: the presence is there. Toasty oak wraps the fruit, yet it’s well matched to the power of 2022. Red fruit laced with aniseed, a graphite through line and warm spice – just a pinch of vanilla. The palate is like lifting the gate to a…

Moss Wood 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot

Exceptional purity to the 2022 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon as it radiates with blackcurrant, warm slate, gravel and earthy aromas.  It is a fuller-flavoured vintage but retains the estate signature of finesse with powerful, sweet cassis and red earth flavours with a not unwelcome touch of mint. Mid weight and stylish while pliable tannins hold…

Joe Czerwinski- Robert Parker Wine Advocate reviews Moss Wood 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon

"Marked by notes of ripe cherries, red-skinned plums and hints of cassis, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon was being bottled the day of my visit, so I tasted it from tank. It's medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. While previous vintages showed more oak influence, this (and the 2018 and 2019) show a more nuanced touch and barely noticeable cedar and vanilla shadings."

Vintage 2020

Vintage 2020 - Moss Wood Pinot Noir

2020 Growing Season

It’s hard to know where to start with all this. The bushfires in southeastern Australia have caused horrific damage in some of the vineyard regions and the losses to fire and smoke taint are yet to be fully calculated. Some of the stories have been heart-rending and our hearts go out to all who have borne the brunt of Mother Nature’s full force.

Fortunately, not every wine area has been badly affected and no doubt there are going to be some good news stories emerging as the harvest comes in. We hear hopeful stories from our colleagues interstate and hope they continue.

In Margaret River we’re counting our blessings. Mother Nature has, so far, been in a benign mood and spared us any serious challenges. Readers will note the use of “so far”, a classic farming response. At the time of writing, we’re in the home straight, with Moss Wood due to be finished by 24th March and Ribbon Vale soon after.

After 3 very mild summers, this year we have enjoyed a more typical season. Temperatures have been closer to average and this, combined with early flowering, means we’re roughly 10 days ahead of average. We’re delighted to report all varieties are showing excellent quality but sadly, yields are well down, with Pinot Noir the worst offender, being 70% below average. The others are not as bad but we’re expecting to be down around 30-40% overall.

The local redgum eucalypts have produced an abundance of blossom in 2020 and this has kept the birds away from the grapes, at least until the last 3 weeks or so. Since then flowering has all but ceased and some very hungry silver eyes have turned up in the vineyards looking for grapes. Our nets have done a good job of keeping them at bay, although their hunger is now causing them to attack the nets and they’re getting through even the smallest of holes. They have just about outstayed their welcome!

As much as we’re forever optimistic, we knew crops were unlikely to be big this year because we experienced a significant hailstorm in the very early hours of 24th Oct 2019. When we inspected the vineyard there was significant damage, with shoot tips cut off and canes badly bruised. Little wonder the crop was reduced and as we like to say around here, a good hailstorm will do that.

We want to reiterate the important point - quality is very impressive, with strong similarities to 1995 and 2003. We look forward to showing the 2020 wines off as they roll through over the next 3 years.

Vintage Crew

Assisting the Moss Wood regulars, Matthew Wood, Henry Hewitson and Liam Burkhardt, we’ve got an eclectic group of budding young winemakers. Ryan Donnelly and Reilly Jones, are both 4th year Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology students at Adelaide University. Ryan is a Mornington Peninsula lad and we’ve been showing him how Pinot Noir and Chardonnay should be made. Reilly is an old scholar of Adelaide’s venerable Westminster School, as is Keith and who also worked in the latter’s home town of McLaren Vale at Wirra Wirra. We’ve worked hard to discourage the bad habits learned in both places. Marie Houlette, an Agricultural Engineering graduate from Supagro at the National Institute of Agronomy at Montpellier University, is the second person from that esteemed institution to work with us, the original being Marie Charlemagne in 2018. Caroline Gass, the first native of Alsace to do a Moss Wood vintage, is a Bachelor of Agronomy from Brabois University of Technology at Nancy and is currently studying for her Master’s Degree in Vine, Wine and Terroir at the University of Dijon. Last but not least is Cristina Piumatti, from Piemonte in Italy and a Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology from the University of Turin. Cristina has an interesting history having worked in the Mosel Valley in Germany for Weingut Weiser-Kunstler and most recently at Vinedos Don Leo, in Parras de la Fuente, Coahuila in Mexico. Mexican work experience is a definite first for Moss Wood and Cristina walks around in a most stylish Mexican hat when out in the vineyard.

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