Ray Jordan “High five” – The West Australian, November 11th, 2017

Margaret River’s founding wineries share the pick of their stellar past.

The annual Margaret River Gourmet Escape indulgence will be a time for celebration and reflection. Margaret River turns 50 as a wine region this year, an occasion that is cause enough for celebration. From impoverished rural region with a few surfers and alternative life-stylers, to modern sophisticated wine region producing some of the world’s great wines, it has been a remarkable transformation.

Next week myself and co-author Peter Forrestal launch The Way it Was – a History of the Early Days of the Margaret River Wine Industry. The book examines the confluence of circumstances, people, events, cultural and social change that created the critical mass to give birth to a new industry.
In this week’s column, I asked the present custodians of five of the founding wineries to tell me the wine they believe the most important in their history, and why. I had my own views, which in the end were pretty much consistent with theirs. If you are lucky enough to have any of these wines, you are in possession of a priceless piece of  WA history.

MOSS WOOD (EST 1969)

Keith and Clare Mugford, who bought this iconic boutique estate from founding owners Bill and Sandra Pannell, said it was a tough decision “but when push came to shove, we both agreed that 1975 and 1976 were very important in establishing the vineyard’s reputation and in the end, we chose 1975 Moss Wood cabernet sauvignon as pivotal. As a young wine, the 75 drew immediate attention to Moss Wood because of its fruit depth, complexity and tannin balance. Over the four decades since, no matter where it’s been tasted, the 75 has continued to meet and often exceed expectations. To have been lucky enough to have had such a wine, made off very young vines, by passionate but relatively inexperienced winemakers, speaks volumes, not just about our vineyard, but Margaret River as a whole.”

CAPE MENTELLE (EST 1970)

This famous estate, established by the Hohnen family, is now owned by the giant French company LVMH. Estate director Cameron Murphy said that “in the grand scheme of things for both Cape Mentel le and even for the region in those early years, I believe that the 1983 vintage Cape Mentelle cabernet sauvignon winning the second consecutive Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy in 1984 was a game changer. It shone a spotlight on Margaret River and proved that the region, even as a teenager, should be taken seriously and could deliver the country’s best red wines, consistently.”

CULLEN (EST 1971)

This Margaret River producer is the oldest that is still in the same family who started it. Winemaker Vanya Cullen believes the Diana Madeline 2001, the first to carry her mother’s name, was the most important in the winery’s history. “It has gone on to become recognised as one of the great wines and the first Cullen wine to be sealed under a screw cap.”

VASSE FELIX (EST 1967)

Owner Paul Holmes a Court said without hesitation that the 1972 cabernet sauvignon malbec, the first red wine made by Tom Cullity at the region’s first commercial winery, was his choice. Along with a 1972 riesling, it provided compelling proof that the region had a future.

LEEUWIN ESTATE (EST 1973)

Little surprise that a chardonnay was chosen. Marketing and events co-ordinator Lucy Davis, granddaughter of Leeuwin founders Denis and Tricia Horgan, said that after some family discussion the 1981 chardonnay was their pivotal wine. “That was the wine which first threw the international spotlight on Leeuwin Estate and opened export markets after it received Decanter Magazine’s highest recommendation.”