For the Margaret River wine region’s 50th anniversary, Vasse Felix worked with the local wineries association to present a retrospective tasting of cabernet sauvignon. Here are some standouts among the older cabernets.

Moss Wood 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Warmer than the 2004s, this wine’s black fruit still has a contrast of cool, coastal savor, as if the fl avor of the ocean, the sand and the surf is captured in the wine’s energy and freshness.