This wine was included in the 2025 Masters of Wine exam which means it is regarded by them as a classic example of the regional varietal style, so I was excited having the chance to taste it among a wide array of Margaret River Chardonnay with both the “classic” concept in mind. Does it fit in the Margaret River varietal style? Absolutely, it does, albeit at the slightly richer end of the spectrum, which has always been part of the Mosswood signature. It is “classic Marg’s” with segmented, finer details and potential to develop further, which illuminates Margaret River chardonnay style in comparison to USA Chardonnay, although the alcohols are similar levels. My note is not in the exam style, rather a standup trade tasting where the wine was poured by owner winemaker Keith Mugford’s son Hugh, once I had got over the shock of how he looked, startlingly like his dad did when I met him in the mid-1970’s. The wine has a top quality green gold colour, which leads to a rich, creamy aroma with complex white peach and nectarine stone fruits, a whiff of struck match Burgundian whole bunch press cloudy juice ferment notes, subtle vanilla oak and lees, Belgian white butter malolactic notes which like an ascending staircase boldly draws you in.

The palate is a solid, well-weighted platform of stone fruit and subtle oak texture, to acidity starting generously endowed with a creamy, rich texture of complex stone fruit and runs long, finishes layered and integrated. All the components are “lined up and tied up.” Balancing authoritative technical mastery with a sense of harmony. I could almost do the exam again to taste this.