This is bold and opulent wine, as is usually the way with Moss Wood Chardonnay, but it’s corralled by tight grapefruit acidity and finishes with freshness and excellent length. I could probably leave it there if you know the wines, though I’ll add that there’s stone fruit, pine-lime and citrus, spicy cedar oak, a distinct aniseed perfume, something of glossy vanilla custard and cashew richness, and some flinty grip to texture. It’s a thoroughly impressive wine, flavourtown, but balanced and tight. Its best days are ahead of it.