Moss Wood 2025 Chardonnay – Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot

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Moss Wood 2025 Chardonnay – Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot

Points: 96
Rating: Stars

To paraphrase a former Prime Minister, life is not meant to be fair. Otherwise, why would Margaret River have yet another compelling vintage of such quality, following on from the stellar 2023, although to be honest, it has been a very long time since the region had a vintage that wasn’t exceptional. If there is a complaint about 2025, it is that it is perhaps not as generous with its yields as the region often is. Anyway, what we have here is a Chardonnay of the very highest quality. Such a thing is not uncommon in the region, but that does not make it any less welcome and anyone with a case of this in the cellar is going to drink very well over the next dozen years. The grapes were whole bunch pressed and then, during fermentation, transferred to French oak barriques, 48% of which were new. The wine remained maturing in those barrels for the following year and a half.

Straw gold, this is youthful but intense with notes of quince, rockmelon, grapefruit, lemon curd, peaches, almonds, oatmeal and even a hint of gunflint. Supple, luscious and quite gorgeously textured, the wine has amazing length. It might seem impossible, but it lifts even further on the palate. A stunning Margaret River Chardonnay which will continue to astonish over the next decade. Love this.

October, 2026

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